Pompeii Intereo - Barbe Saint John
I got hooked on resin WAY back in 1977 when I got a resin casting kit for Christmas. I gleefully made a number of paper weights and ash trays with that kit. When I ran out of resin and catalyst, I did a whole bunch of babysitting and pop bottle gathering to get enough money to buy another kit.
Getting resin casting supplies was not easy in those days. I think I had about 3 or 4 kits of resin crafting fun before I wasn't able to find them anymore. Luckily we now a lot easier of a time buying resin crafting supplies.
I've tried LOTS of different resins, some with better results than others. I have loved and endorsed ICE resin from the first time I used it. Some resins I can not get to fully cure in San Francisco, others turn yellow after a few months. I don't have either of those problems with ICE resin.
Working with resin is fun but can be make you want to rip your hair out when things don't go quite right. If the resin never sets (remains sticky) or is full of air bubbles you may think its not worth the effort to make anything else. Through trial and error I've discovered a few tricks to make casting resin more fun with less stress and better results.
Being completely prepared BEFORE you mix your resin is key. That starts first by covering your work surface with a cut trash bag, wax paper or even a thick layer of newspaper. Also you should wear old pants and a full apron. If not more than likely you will be a victim of Murphy's Law, the ONE time you don't put down a barrier on your work surface will be the one time you drop the bottle of resin on the table or yourself. Trust me on this one, I have the table and pants to prove it.
Resin drips and spills are hard to clean up completely whether off a hard surface or your hand. I always wear disposable rubber gloves when working so I don't have sticky fingers for 2 days after wards. Denatured alchohol and acetone will clean up resin, but both are flammable so be sure to follow safety rules when using them. I have heard that white vinegar will also clean up epoxy resin, I haven't tried it yet so can't vouch that it does work.
Have everything ready to go, resin has a working time of about 20-30 mins. You don't want to have to stop and look for a stirrer after you've measured the resin & hardener or go digging for the right mold.
If you are pouring resin over photos, paper or artwork in bezels (like the image and words in Pompeii Intereo necklace above) be sure you have sealed the paper with Mod Podge or Weldbond and that it is completely dry before you pour resin on top. Unsealed paper will absorb the resin and make it transparent or dark. If this is your intention and the look you're going for ,than its cool, if not it can ruin your piece. If any spots of the glue/mod podge are still wet when you pour resin and will remain white after the resin cures. It will never dry and there is no way to fix it.
I find I get alot less air bubbles if I warm both the resin and hardener before mixing. I put the bottles in a bowl of very hot water to get warm for about 10 mins before I measure out and mix.
Resin that doesn't set up is usually a result of inaccurate measuring of resin vs hardener or undermixing. I like to use a disposable cup to mix resin, it's easier for me than using the tiny measuring cup (which I always seem to spill while mixing). You need to mix the resin for at least a couple of minutes. It has to be properly blended and mixing it 10 times isn't going to cut it. I mix for about 4 minutes just to be make sure.
Resist the urge to whip the resin. It doesn't mix the components any faster and just gives you more work to do getting all those airbubbles out after pouring. Stir easily while scraping the sides and the bottom of the cup.
To get out those evil little air bubbles, I use one of those long grill fire starter lighters. Its easier than holding a match over the resin, and theres no chance of ash or a blackened match tip falling into your wet resin.
If you are using a mold, warming the mold before pouring resin also helps with getting rid of air bubbles. Plastic molds can be gently warmed with a blowdryer, silicone molds can be warmed by a heat gun or in an oven on low heat with the door propped open.
After pouring resin, it needs to set and cure for about 24 hours at 74 degrees. Cover your projects with an empty box or container to keep dust from falling onto your projects.
If you inadvertantly get a fingerprint, hair or some dust on the top of your resin you can repair it. Use a 400 grit sandpaper to sand off the flaw, then sand with finer grades of sandpaper 600 grit than 1200 grit to smooth it out. Clean off the piece then add another light coat of resin and let cure. The piece will now be as good as new.
There are lots of things you can mix in resin to add interest. I've used colored sand, peppercorns, snippets of thread, copper metal shavings, angelina fibers, gemstone chips, candy sprinkles, cut up peacock feathers, wood shavings, seed beads, pencil shavings, crushed herbs, seeds, tiny pearls,bits of fine wire, dried paint chips, etc...
I hope you find these tips helpful! If you have some tips of your own, please feel free to leave them in the comments section.
Barbe Saint John
